Sunday, October 6, 2019

Royal Tour of Rajasthan

It was a long-time pending destination, especially for my wife.
Rajasthan, a state of forts, palaces, temples, sand dunes, music, local food and what not…
In 2017, we drove to Udaipur during Christmas holidays. In the same lines, my plan was to drive to one City at a time & cover all places in leisure, but my home-minister had different plans: finish-off the entire state in one-go. No guessing on whose plan won.
After some research, I finalised the major places to cover in 8 days & booked a package that includes accommodation & travel. We booked the flight tickets & my daughter was excited to fly, this time by Air.
A week before the departure, our 6 am direct flight got cancelled & they rescheduled us in a 7:35 am am one-stop flight, in which we were losing almost half-a day. Never mind.
The day arrived and we reached Bangalore airport by 6 am, checked-in & our flight was on time. We landed in Hyderabad around 8:40 am on a Sunday morning. I messaged my close friend there saying “Landed in Hyderabad” to surprise him. I shared my travel plan with him when he called me & he was surprised to see me travel by flight.
The flight took-off after a 30 mins halt.

Day 1: Bangalore to Jaipur
We landed in Jaipur around 11am. After baggage collection, we checked-in to the hotel around 12 pm. The first thing we wanted to do was to have lunch, as the breakfast in the flight was very light. Our cab driver took us through the Pink City to a restaurant near Hawa Mahal. 

 

After having an authentic Rajasthani Thali, we headed to the City Palace. Located in the heart of Jaipur, the City palace still houses the Royal Family. The palace complex includes many buildings, galleries, courtyards, temple & a museum too. I am not going to explain the history of any of the places here.

 
 
 
  
 

From the Palace, we headed to the adjacent Jantar Mantar, which has a collection of 19 astronomical instruments for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking location of major stars as the earth orbits around the sun, etc. (Note: You also get a combo ticket that covers entry to multiple places in Jaipur that is valid for 2 days, which saves waiting time in queue)

 
 

After spending some time there, we headed to the Govind Dev Ji Temple, then to the Moti Dungri Ganeshji Temple. There were many brand new bikes & cars near the temple. Later our driver told that most of the people bring their new vehicles to perform pooja.

 

Our final place to visit for the day was the Birla Temple. As usual, it was built of white marble. At the backdrop, there was the Moti Doongri Fort that houses the Ekalingeshwar Mahadev Temple, which opens only once a year on Mahashivratri.

 

After a light dinner, we headed to view the Pink City in night. Also the bonus was the lighting of Hawa Mahal & Albert Hall.

 

Day 2: Jaipur
The day started early as usual for a sunrise photo-shoot from our hotel terrace, which was not so great.

 

Later after breakfast we headed to Amber Fort. On the way was the Jal Mahal, part-submerged in Man Sagar Lake. There was a view point enroute Amber Fort too. 

 
 

Finally we reached the marvelous Amber Fort overlooking the Moatha Lake. As usual this fort also has a temple, courtyards and multiple gates.

 
 
 
 
 
 
view from the fort...

The next destination is the Nahargarh Fort that overlooks the Jaipur City. It also had a step-well, wax museum & Sheesh Mahal.

 
city view from the fort...
 
 
 
 
 

After lunch, we visited the Albert Hall that we saw last night. It is the oldest museum of Rajasthan opened in late 1800s.  The museum has a wide collection of paintings, jewelry, carpets, ivory, stone, metal sculptures, and works in crystal. Also the main attraction was an Egyptian Mummy. It started to rain as we finished the museum visit which was a relief after a hot day.

 
 
 Shields engraved with Ramayana & Mahabaratha scenes...
 
The Mummy...

Later in the evening we visited the famous Masala Chowk, where you get all varieties of food, a lovely place for food lovers – great collection under one roof. We had some nice chaats, sweets, lassi, etc. before retiring for the day.

Day 3: Jaipur to Bikaner (320 Kms)
We left early by 6:00 AM in the morning to Bikaner. After having breakfast on the way we checked-in to the hotel around 12:00 PM. Post lunch at the hotel, we headed to Junagarh Fort. The fort had palaces, temples, etc. made of red sandstone & marble. The fort has some beautiful spots for photography

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Another attraction in Bikaner was the National Research Centre on Camel or the Camel Breeding Farm. The Centre also has a museum and kiosk selling camel dairy products. One can also enjoy a camel ride there. The Centre had 4 breeds of camels. We walked around the Centre and tried some Flavored Camel Milk too.

 
 
 
 

The next was my daughter’s request-point as she learnt about Bikaner in her GK book. It is the Karni Mata Temple (also known as the Temple of Rats) in Deshnok which was some 30 Kms from Bikaner. We reached there in 45 mins. and it seemed like some Fair was going on there, may be because of Navratras. The temple was crowded with people as well as rats. Many were offering grains & other food items, may be for the rats. The rats were coolly busy eating & did not disturb anybody. Somehow we managed to come out after darshan without harming any of the rats. We drove back to the hotel after some refreshments. On the way we could see crackers in the sky being bursted in Bikaner as it was Dussehra night.

 

Day 4: Bikaner to Jaisalmer (340 Kms)
This morning also we left at 6 am from the hotel. After a breakfast & a tea break on the way, we checked-in to the hotel around 12:30 pm. Now we realised that we are in Rajasthan because of the heat. This place was hotter than any other place visited in the state. You could see nothing but dry land on either sides of the road.
Sunrise, on the go...
 
Majestic View of the Fort before entering Jaisalmer...

I was glad to revisit Jaisalmer after some 12 years; of course that was an official trip. The hotel had a nice view of the Fort & the surrounding from the roof-top restaurant. After a quick lunch at the hotel itself, we started our visit to 2 of the Havelis (Mansions) there. We visited the Patwon Ki Haveli and the Salim Shah Ki Haveli. The architectures were great but lacks proper maintenance. The former was mostly occupied by bats.

 
Bats, all over the ceiling...
 
 
 
 
 
 

Slowly we strolled to the nearby Jaisalmer Fort popularly known as the Sonar Quila or Golden Fort mainly because of its colour. We walked through the main attractions like King’s Palace that leads through to the Queen’s Palace, Jain temple & the Cannon view point.  The architecture was amazing with a lot of Jharokas everywhere. The Fort was largely populated with locals as well as with many shops.

 
Bats, again...
 
King's Palace with windows & Queen's palace without windows...
 
 
 
 
 
Panaromic view from Cannon point...
 
Jain Temple...
 
 
Rajasthani Dolls...
 

It’s time to see some water body in Rajasthan; the nearby Gadisar Lake was the only place there. As my daughter wanted to go boating, we took a pedal boat for 30 mins where she did the pedaling most of the time. I was busy in taking photos and my wife enjoying the cool breeze.

 
 
 
 
Some large fishes in the lake...

After half an hour, there was just 10 minutes left for the sunset. So we rushed to the sunset point which was behind our hotel. We reached there on time to see the sun setting down behind a hill. That was a calm place to relax with many Chattris built around. 

 
 
Colorful curtains in one of the buildings...
 

After spending some time there we retired back to the hotel. After having dinner at the hotel, we walked through the town & also tasted some yummy hot milk with kesar & almond.

Day 5: Jaisalmer
There was no long drive this morning. Got to see the sunrise from the terrace.

 
 

So after breakfast, we visited the Jaisalmer War Museum that is around 15 Kms away. The museum includes vehicles and equipment captured during the war, a Hunter Aircraft that destroyed enemy tanks, an Honour Wall engraved with the names of the Param Vir Chakra and Maha Vir Chakra gallantry award winners. It also has an audio visual room where a movie about Indian Army is shown. This war museum made me remember the visit to Kargil War Memorial 2 years back. Ah, that was an amazing drive.

 
 
 

The next place to visit was the picturesque Bada Bagh or Bara Bagh that consists of a set of Chhatris or royal cenotaphs of Maharajas of Jaisalmer. Altogether, there are hundreds of graves of the royal family with inscription on them. Also it had a lake adjacent to it that made the location more interesting.

 
 
 
 

After lunch in Jaisalmer, we headed to the so-called Haunted Village in Kuldhara. Actually the village was abandoned in the early 19th century for unknown reasons. There were different stories by different people regarding the village. It was really a big area to be abandoned.
We walked through the village to find only the walls of the houses. While walking around, on seeing a man in one of the house, my daughter really got frightened. After some walking around in hot sun, we left for the much awaited place, the desert.

 
One of the house there...
 
Panaromic view of the village...

We reached the desert camp in Sam a bit earlier that was 30 Kms away. We took the Desert Safari in a Jeep that took us to the Sand dunes. We also enjoyed the Camel Safari and returned back to the Camp after sunset. Later in the evening we enjoyed a bit of Cultural events in the resort followed by a Rajasthani Dinner.

 
 
Sand Dunes... on my wife's dress too...
 
Playing with the Sun...
 
 
 

Day 6: Jaisalmer to Jodhpur (320 Kms)
Another long drive started with an early breakfast at the hotel around 7:30 AM. As usual the route was dry with little vegetation. On the way, we could see the Army camps/tents in that hot sun. Hats-off to them that they work in such a place where we complain about the place as tourists.

With a short break in between, we checked-in to the hotel around 1:00 PM. After a light lunch in the hotel, we visited the Umaid Bhawan Palace; which is part museum and part hotel managed by Taj. There is quite a history behind building this lavish palace. Also the vintage cars used by the Maharajas are displayed near the palace. It was worth to go through the museum to know the lavish life of the royal family.

 
 
Seemed like Tequila glasses...
 
One of the many clocks there...
 

Another Fort !!! “ was the expression on my wife’s face when we left for the next place of visit. Mehrangarh fort was the last fort of our trip. It is one of the largest forts in India. As in every fort, this also had many palaces, a temple & museum. The museum had a wide collection of armoury, palanquins, howdahs, royal cradles, miniatures, musical instruments, costumes, and furniture. We need to walk, walk & walk through the fort to see everything. The Rajasthan International Folk Festival 2019 (Jodhpur RIFF) was happening during our visit. We could see many folk artists at various places performing.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Some Artists performing at RIFF...
 
 
 

 
 
 
A staff over there...
 
  
BLUE city as seen from the fort...
 
 
View of Fort from outside...
The last place to visit in Jodhpur was Jaswant Thada; another cenotaph built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It seems the building was built with carve sheets of marble. Whatever it may be, it was a nice place to relax in the evening with a pond in the backdrop.

 
 
 
 

Day 7: Jodhpur to Jaipur via Ajmer & Pushkar (380 Kms)
As the trip is entering the last phase, we started our drive back to Jaipur. The next place to visit was different than all that we have seen in the past 6 days. As we left our hotel by 8 AM, we reached Ajmer (220 Kms) around 1 PM. The roads were narrow that 2 vehicles cannot pass. The car was stopped to park, way before & we had to walk to the Ajmer Sharif Dargah. The parking guy told that people entering the Dargah should cover their head in order to sell his stuff. My wife pulled up a dupatta from the luggage, my daughter already had a scarf around her neck & I always have my hand-kerchief. We walked to the Dargah & as we were about to enter the shrine area, a lady stopped my daughter saying that her legs needs to be covered too as she was wearing a knee-length frock. Quickly I sent my wife to go inside. When she came out, my daughter wrapped her dupatta around her waist & we both went inside.
Road to the Dargah...
 
Finally we came out and visited the ‘Adhai Din Ka Jhonpra’, behind the Dargah. It is one of the oldest mosques in India with a mix of Hindu, Muslim & Jain architectures. There were many stories related to this structure too. Never mind the stories.

 

After lunch we started to Pushkar that was 15 Kms away. At half-way, we stopped to see the Maharan Pratap Statue. One can have a great view of Ajmer City.

 

In another half an hour, we reached the Pushkar Lake, which has 52 ghats altogether. We visited the Brahma ghat and then proceeded to visit the famous Brahma Temple. Our driver’s friend explained the story behind the ONLY Brahma temple in the world. In short, Savitri/Saraswati cursed Brahma that he would be never worshipped, but then discounted the curse permitting his worship only in Pushkar. Alongside she has cursed Indra, Vishnu & Agni too. Please Google for more information. Then Savitri went to the hill top, which is our next spot to visit.
Brahma Temple...
 
Panaromic view of Pushkar Lake...

The Savitri Mata Temple on the hill is a KM away from down. We decided to take the cable car instead of steps. As there was no crowd at that time, we got the cable car immediately and in 10 mins we reached the top. The cars needed some maintenance as we could hardly see the outside world from inside.
We need 3D glasses to read the ticket...
 
view from inside the car...
 
View of Pushkar from top...
 
Savitri Mata Temple...
 
You can see the steps downwards to the base...

The view from top was awesome as you can see the whole Pushkar from there. After darshan & spending some time, we boarded the car & reached down in no time. We saw a lot of crowd waiting for the cable car. We felt lucky that we finished it. After watching the sun set, we started our 150 Km journey back to Jaipur.
Sun setting on our trip...
 

Day 8: Jaipur to Bangalore
Into our final lap of the trip, this day was scheduled to visit local market & shopping until departure as per the package guys. I had a different plan. As we had our flight in the evening, I wanted to visit the famous Step-Well, called Chand Bawri in Abhaneri. We started the 100 Km drive after breakfast in the hotel and reached around 11:30.
A tunnel on the way...
 

Chand Bawri consists of 3,500 narrow steps over 13 stories. It is one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India. One has to see it to believe the architecture that was done in 8th-9th century.

 

Later we visited the adjacent Harshad Mata Temple, dedicated to goddess of happiness & joy. The temple is an old structure with beautiful architecture. Also one can see the faces of the statues being damaged.

 

Post-lunch, we drove back & reached Jaipur in the evening to have some snacks & Rajasthani sweets. The driver dropped us at the airport 2 hours before & we completed the formalities and waited for our flight.

As we boarded our flight, a large group of 25-30 also boarded with us. As soon as the plane took–off, & the seat belt sign went off, we could see the group members exchanging food items, fruits and what not. It felt like we have boarded a town bus from Jaipuru to Bengaluru.

On the whole the trip was intended to cover major attractions of Rajasthan in one shot which was successful. Taking a travel package was helpful. The weather was hot in all the places we visited except Jaisalmer which was very hot. We kept ourselves hydrated by having fresh juices, lassi & butter milk (or Chaas as they call it there), wherever we got it.
The only sad part was that I was not behind the wheel for 8 long days. Never mind, there is always next time.

Some shocking pictures of the trip:
On the highway...
 
In the Car...