This trek was pending
for a long time since we trekked Parvathamalai in April 2018.
Velliangiri, also
known as Dakshin-Kailash, is a part of Western Ghats. The seven hills with
altitudes ranging from 520m – 1840m are bordered by the plains of Coimbatore
district to the east, the Palakad district of Kerala on the western boundary,
the Nilgiri Mountains to the north, and the Siruvani hills on the southern
boundary. As per our collected information, it is open only for 3 months
(Feb-May) during Maha Shivrathri and during Shivrathri of every month.
We came across many
reviews & feedback that this is the toughest trek in Tamil Nadu, in which
one has to trek 7 hills to reach the peak. In fact, we were warned by one of
“Isha” follower that we cannot complete the trek without proper guidance.
However we were confident that we can do this too as we had the experience of Parvathamalai and Sathuragiri.
The only challenge was
that we planned to trek this one in the night. So we wanted to trek on a full
moon day that falls on/close to a weekend. Based on this we selected 7-8 March
as the D-day as it was a weekend and 2 weeks post-Maha Shivratri in order to
avoid the rush. The initial plan was to start climbing up after a light dinner,
reach on top by midnight, stay until sunrise & come down for lunch. Seems
simple, but was not.
The team for this
adventure includes me, Velumani (my colleague) & one of his old friend
Senthil.
On 7th
March, after working for half-a-day, we left office by 11 am. We had to pick up
Senthil from Hosur. On the way to Hosur, we finished our home-packed lunch,
which I forgot to mention. My wife packed it as she had some other commitment;
otherwise normally we start our journey after lunch at home. Later we picked up
Senthil and after a couple of breaks for tea & fuel, we touched Coimbatore
by 5pm. Driving another 40 odd Kms took us to the base, the Veliangiri Temple,
Poondi around 6 pm.
Ready to Trek...
We parked our vehicle
at an available slot where already many were parked. We changed to a
trek-compatible attire & decided to go barefoot. After visiting the temple,
we got a stick for trekking which was suggested by everyone. We were ready to
trek & as we entered the start point, we saw a huge crown gathered.
That was the Checking
Point by the Forest Authorities for any plastic items. They were thoroughly
checking the bags for anything wrapped in plastic and were advised to re-wrap
them in newspaper. Also they were helping to wrap them. They announced that
cameras, sleeping bags, tents, etc are not allowed to be taken for the trek.
Only plastic water bottles were allowed. However there was a cloak-room type to
leave them behind near the temple. We too wrapped our eatables in the newspaper
they provided. Each one of us had a backpack with a set of clothes, 2
bottles of water & some food.
Forest officials checking...
At 8pm, it was like
coming out of customs-check in the airport. We started climbing the first hill
that was full of steep steps. As it was 2-days before Full Moon day, we had the
moonlight that lit the stairs. However we & everyone carried torch-light
for backup.
One fallen tree where many hit their head...
After some 30 mins., Senthil showed some discomfort while climbing.
We stopped for a while & came to know that because of his early lunch
today, now he is feeling uneasy. The problem was, we could not have
dinner at the base as planned, as there were no hotels nearby the temple.
Anyhow we carried some bread, biscuits, fruits & ample water in case if we
don’t get any.
If he needs to go
back, he should do it now as it is very close from base. When asked again, he
said he will go back. We both agreed and told him to stay in the temple
premises & message us once he reaches. We gave him some stuff to eat and
relax a bit. After some time, he said that he is ready to climb and happily we
3 continued to climb up.
We are still in 1st
hill and it was full of steps with stones which gives you a nice acupressure.
We just kept on climbing the steps that were visible in moonlight or followed
others. The use of torchlight was minimised as it used to blind the oncoming
people. Around 9:15 pm, the first hill was completed by reaching the landmark:
Vellai Vinayagar Temple.
As Senthil was cautious, Velumani accompanied him,
& we three regrouped there to start the 2nd hill.
The steps continued to
exist in the 2nd hill also with many shops on the way. We decided to
have some butter milk in one of them that was very well required.
After time
into 2nd hill, comes the Valukku Parai: the landmark of 2nd
Hill. It’s a huge slippery rock with steps etched to climb.
Valukku Parai at night...
We were
reaching the end of 2nd hill. One can see the Coimbatore City
beautifully lit up.
When I stopped for a while to see this, I could hear my
heart beat clearly. We again regrouped at the end of 2nd hill by
around 10:15pm, had some bread, fruits, etc., just to tame our hunger.
As we started the 3rd
hill, we came across some aged people coming down which made us think that the
trek would be easier. Sometime into the 3rd hill, comes another
landmark: Pambatti Gugai (Snake Charmers Cave) where there is a water source.
After regrouping there, we continued our walk up to see many people
resting/sleeping on huge rocks. Even some were snoring which heard like animal
sounds that made us & many to switch on the torch into that direction.
Seeing people snoring made everyone laugh forgetting their pain.
Our Dinner...
We saw small kid aged
somewhere between 6-8 climbing up, knowing nothing but following his father’s
footsteps. Suddenly there were chants like “Om Namah Shivaya” and sometimes it
was old MGR songs on their Bluetooth speakers. Even there was one person who
was coming down asked for some water seeing my 2 bottles on the side of my
backpack. I noticed his concern for me when he consumed less so that I do not
have shortage.
Some pics of the moonlit sky...
At times when we
stopped to re-group, legs started to pain a bit. The terrain started to change
now. Mud path started; there were some steps too along with small rocks. Some
were telling that plain path will start after 30 mins. This path was tough as
it was fine mud, steep downwards. Knees started to pain as we were going down
the slope. With the help of the stick it was a lot easier. I guess this hill is
called Thiruneer Malai.
Just for a second, I thought about the return trek, and
immediately consoled myself not to think about it. At the moment, we were
not bothered about in which hill we were. We kept walking as we could see a
magnificent view of the Coimbatore city once again.
Finally the plains started
and we could see a lot of people resting/sleeping there. It was foggy as we
could see in the moonlight. The moon was also playing hide and seek with the
clouds. Another round of porridge and butter milk was taken in one of the many
shops.
Walking along the edge
of the hill with a cool breeze, there stood a huge stone; called Bheeman stone.
Not sure about its history, that was one of the landmarks.
As we were going
down a hill, we could hear a lot of voices of the crowd. We thought that there
may be some shops. As we reached down, we could see a water body where everyone
was taking a dip before the final lap of the trek. We too were ready to take a
dip and took turns to take a dip so as to take care of our bags. It was 1:30 am
and we were taking a dip in ice-chilled water at that height with cool breeze.
Whatever it may be, the dip nullified our past 5 hours effort & we were
feeling fresh as if we are yet to start the trek.
We started our final
lap at 2 am into the foggy mountain. As it was night time, we could see some
(torch) lights on the path of 7th hill and it looked like some stars
high above. Somehow, walking along the steep hill, we reached our
destination around 3 am. There was no concrete temple as such there. The main
sanctum is in a cave formed by 3 boulders, as we followed other devotees inside
the so-called temple area, we could see many people sleeping there.
As we thought our goal
was achieved, the second half was still pending. We decided to sleep till
sunrise, but no place to hide. We cannot sleep in the open as the breeze was
chill. In the meantime, Velumani saw a small cave near the temple, under a huge
rock. We thought that we 3 can squeeze into that for another 3 hours &
leave early. When we went it, it had more space for 2 persons & further we
go inside, it was a steep free fall off the mountain. Our night stay was set
inside the cave. We had some bread, fruits & lied down.
With great difficulty,
we could sleep for 1 hour due to the cool breeze.
the cave where we slept...
We woke up at 6 am to see a
huge crowd outside the temple in foggy background with some people still
sleeping everywhere. The weather was ON & OFF with fog surrounding the hill
in no time.
We started our descent
by 6:30 am crossing the lush green surroundings that was not visible in the
night. The walk along the edge of the hills was amazing in the day time as we
could see people walking far along the edge of other hill.
After a break for
porridge we reached the bathing place in an hour. We regrouped again to start
the rest of our trek.
After this point, as
we walked and walked, we didn’t know in which hill we were & just kept
walking. In between we stopped for some liquid diet at multiple points. On the
way we saw some path that was closed & recollected that we saw it last
night.
Also now Velumani was
walking with 2 sticks as he got his feet hurt some sharp stone last night which
made him slower. It looked like as if he was skiing. On the way we could see so
much crowd climbing up which includes small girls & aged ladies too, some
without sticks. I forgot to mention that females in age group 10-50 were not
allowed to climb the hill.
what an awesome place to sleep...
As time passed Velumani & I were walking together
leaving behind Senthil on his own pace.
We regularly halted
for some refreshments on the way & took pics all the way that we missed to
see last night. We even saw some people carrying loads of fruits or whatever
eatables that we find in the shops. Meanwhile, while crossing Tiruneer Malai,
people were collecting the mud that is used to apply on forehead.
As we passed hills 4
& 3, the mud path disappeared & the rocks started. Now lays the
challenge to keep up our pace. It was getting difficult to walk on those stones
as it was not smooth. The same stones were giving pain today as against
acupressure yesterday. The stick took most of our weight and we came to know
the use of it now. Regrouping was happening between 2 of us leaving Senthil
behind.
Pambatti Gugai...
Valukku Parai...
snack time...
We were happy to see
the city view by 9:30 am & we thought we were close enough to the base,
which was still not. Finally we both reached the Vellai Vinayagar Temple around
10 am and were happy that there is only 1 hill to go.
The walk from the
last hill to the base was the ultimate experience. You will be eager to
complete it fast, but the pain in your feet will slow you down. In between, I
consumed the last sip of water available in my bottles & Velumani was also
left behind. The sun too now started to show its presence, but the long,
huge trees saved us.
At one point I could
see some land down & felt happy like as if someone stranded in an ocean
sees Land. On the way, I alone enjoyed some fresh Water melons without waiting
for my partners & continued walking.
shopkeepers carrying melons...
After sometime, I could hear the
announcement in the temple regarding the rules for trekking, but still the
temple is not visible. The on-coming people told that the temple is just 5 mins
away, but it took 5 mins to see the temple. And from there, after seeing the
goal, it took 10 mins to reach the base of the temple, by the time it was 11:30
am.
I sat at a mantap in
the temple waiting for the other two. Velumani arrived 20 mins later and
Senthil arrived by 12:30pm. We 3 relaxed for a long time there which was
necessary as we normally don’t sit anywhere in between during treks. At the
same time in the temple, there was a pooja/ritual going on with some awesome
drum beats. Hard to believe that half of our tiredness disappeared by just
being in that environment. However I am talking only about the music & not
about any religion/god.
the base temple...
before & after a wash... 😜
We left the place by
1:00 pm, after having lunch on the way & with a tea break in between,
dropped Senthil in Hosur around 7:30 pm. We even enjoyed the local palm juice (padani
in Tamil), rose milk & the grapes from the local grape farms on the way
back to Coimbatore. We reached home by 8:30 pm after a light meal on the way.
Tips for First Timers: First & foremost is to believe in
yourself. Avoid a heavy backpack with food items as the path is dotted with
ample shops. Stick will help a lot, especially during return. Take frequent
rests but don’t sit & relax in between. And please avoid taking anything in plastic covers.
Distance Traveled:
by Car: 815 Kms in 15
Hrs.
by Walk: 16.8 Kms in
12 Hrs.
as recorded by my phone's Health App...
Post-Trek effects: This is my toughest trek so far, may be because of bare foot. We missed the bamboo stick for at least 5 days while getting down the
stairs.
Conclusion:
Everyone had the same goal; i.e. to reach the peak (and obviously back
to base).
Yet each took different paths; some walked on stone, some on grass
and some on mud. Majority people chose to trek barefoot, but still few people
were seen using shoes & sandals.
Many of them chose to use a bamboo stick
for support, few used a trekking pole but still some people were seen without a
stick.
Not even a single person was competing/comparing with each other, but
was helping/waiting for the other to reach to their level.
And whenever the opposite side person was asked, “Still how far to
go? “, the reply came as “You are almost there”, just for motivation.
Also seldom, one was worried to see how far we have come, the only
aim is to go forward & reach the goal.
Only one question came into my mind, why don’t people live/look at
their LIFE like this?
